As the sky turns from bubble-gum pink to mauve and deep-velvety purple, tall coconut palms lean over the sea to listen to the waves. A cello player strings up melodies as the echoing bass beats throb, and wicker lightshades bob away in the sea breeze. We are on Goa’s Ozran Beach in Vagator, at Zeno by the Sea.
The expansive terrace at Zeno by the Sea offers a scenic setting for sunset cocktails
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As I off-road towards the beach from Vagator, I encounter a massive establishment, an experiential address spread across 10,000 square feet abutting the shoreline. Ozran, also known as Little Vagator Beach, is a serene retreat, known for coconut palms framing stunning sunsets. The beach is separated from Anjuna and Vagator by rocks on either side, lending an exclusive feel to Zeno.
View from the top
As one enters this private club-like address, it is hard to miss the throngs of tourists clad in branded resort wear, jiving to the tunes played by an in-house DJ.
Designed by Delhi-based Tenzin Design Studio, Zeno by the Sea is set against the backdrop of the ocean
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Designed by Delhi-based Tenzin Design Studio, Zeno by the Sea is set against the backdrop of the ocean, its expansive terrace offering a scenic setting for sunset cocktails. The well-stocked bar at the lowest level is diagonally opposite the DJ console, with a row of elaborate wicker lightshades.
The well-stocked bar at the lowest level is lined by a row of elaborate wicker lightshades hanging down
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A flight of stairs leads to a lounge, above which is the top floor with a pool and another bar. A lookout terrace on the side, and another small terrace beneath, with seating, adds layers and dimensions and drama to the venue The gentle trickle of the basalt fountain melds with the distant sounds of waves crashing on the shore. Milky white, Roman-style statues and mirrors present more settings for photo ops. Looking around one can see a few unfinished structures nearby…..possibly, more such sunset-viewing clubs with lookouts in times to come!
A lookout terrace on the side, and another small terrace beneath, with seating, adds layers and dimensions to the venue
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Food files
The globally inspired tapas-style menu, curated by chef Nishant Chaubey, features a variety of signature dishes, including mini koobideh or lightly spiced lamb skewers, truffle mushroom cream cheese and Korean chicken wings. Comforting classics, like galouti kebabs and nihari vie for space alongside innovative creations, like a surprisingly umami miso cheesecake we finished the meal with. The truffle mushroom galouti served on baby parathas is soft, succulent and cleverly camouflaged to appear like the kebab’s mutton version.
Korean Chicken Wings
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Inspired by Nishant’s travels across Europe, Southeast Asia and India, the menu ensures there is something for everyone. Think sushi, dimsums, tacos, pizzas and curries from every part of the globe. Another dessert worth trying is the dense and decadent vegan orange and chocolate pave. The tiramisu, on the other hand, is light, airy and redolent with coffee.
Orange & Saffron Salad at Zeno by the Sea
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Heady concoctions
I did find the cocktails a bit wanting in terms of flavour, though their presentation and colours certainly qualified for the sunset frames on guests’ Instagram accounts. As always, a good picante never misses my eye, and that made me give the Paan Picante a go. Vegetal and grassy in taste, it certainly could not stand up to the classic.
Sunset Boulevard
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The gin cocktails, like Black Gold, with fresh grapefruit, thyme, activated charcoal ice and citrus honey is refreshing and balanced, with several notes vying for attention. Whiskey Sour lovers can rejoice in a Blue Pea Whiskey Sour with blue pea and rhubarb foam, while Old Fashioned fans get to dive right into the adventurous Chilli Choco Old Fashioned, replete with the wicked hotness of bird’s eye chillies.
Blue Pea Whiskey Sour
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This cavernous address, with all the trimmings of a swanky party place bursts at the seams on weekends. Sequined and feathered dancers strut in at intervals doing their customary pirouettes.
Cocktail by the pool located on Zeno’s second floor
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If, like me, you are dreaming of simplicity, you could be forgiven for being a bit overwhelmed by the scene. But, then again, on this stretch of Vagator, where out of towners come to get their ‘Goa fix’, Zeno by the Sea ticks all the boxes.
Located at Survey No 224/2, near Olive, Vagator, Goa, Zeno by the Sea is open from Monday to Sunday 1pm to 1am. A meal for two is priced at ₹3,000.
Published – April 09, 2025 12:49 pm IST
