Exploring George Town, Penang: A blend of heritage, street art and modern charm

Walking down the streets of George Town, Penang’s capital city, is bound to take you back in time. With the heavy vintage feel, it does seem as if time has stopped still in some parts and certainly harks back to a different era, particularly for one from yet another commonwealth country. Rows of heritage buildings that still retain the flavour of the colonial era stand proud against modern structures that are mushrooming in the core zone of the city acclaimed as UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The first thought that strikes you when you step out of Penang airport in Malaysia is the nearly sound-free environment. The roads are teeming with vehicles like any other metropolis. Yet a paradox unfolds as there is no honking or any of the usual deafening noises of vehicles, defying the bustling traffic scene that the eyes perceive. Unnecessary honking is frowned upon and often considered disrespectful among the citizens, I was told.

Nyonya dishes and mocktail from George Town
| Photo Credit:
K. Lakshmi

Striking Peranakan architecture

With its unique architectural and cultural landscape that has imbibed various styles, particularly the striking Peranakan architecture, George Town boasts of a fascinating palette of cultural, historical and architectural diversity that is spread all over the city. You cannot help but marvel at the array of well-preserved architectural wonders that reflect the city’s multicultural identity.

Vibrant murals breathe life into weathered walls and often used old shophouses and structures dotted across the city as large canvas, adding colour to the streets of George Town. While virtually every street that has stunning street art and iconic shophouses with beautiful facades will captivate travellers, the charming Armenian Street is the miniature version of the city and has gained popularity as an Instagrammable hub. It encapsulates the interactive artworks unleashed on the walls, quaint cafes and souvenir shops in George Town.

Nestled in the heart of the city, the newly launched Ascott Limited’s Lyf Georgetown Penang is a social lifestyle hotel in Georgetown that is ideal for experience-led co- living and connects the tourists to the city’s attractions.

A guided tour around the hotel reveals the thoughtfully designed spaces that offer flexible use for travellers as private nooks and stay-work-play social spaces. From the elevators, rooms to social spaces, every detail of the hotel’s interior tells a story of the city’s heritage and diverse flavours. There are rooms where guests can savour a view of Andaman sea.

Street art at Armenian Street
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement

Guests were treated to the traditional lion dance and nitrogen-infused cold brew coffee as Penang’s Chief Minister Chow Kon Yeow officiated the opening of the hotel. “Penang is a place where the past and present coexist harmoniously. Lyf Georgetown captures George Town’s identity as a city where tradition meets modernity. The hospitality industry works closely with the local community to highlight Penang’s heritage and local flavours,” says Mr.Yeow.

Mondi Mecja, Country General Manager, Ascott Malaysia, explains the increasing global preference among young travellers for community-driven travel.

“Today’s travellers demand more than just a place to stay. They want spaces that inspire creativity, foster connectivity and immerse in local culture. We are looking to redefine how people travel- shift focus from accommodation to authentic experiences and one that of social living. We are trying to stay unique from the other brands,” says Mr.Mecja. Meticulously set in a prime spot, the hotel’s location blends convenience with charm of history and vibrance. “We have created different spaces where guests who step out to cook, warm food may connect with friends over food,” says Mr.Mecja who adds that a mix of different age groups are being targeted in Malaysia and abroad.

“India is one of our key targets too for Penang tourism. We have direct flights from cities like Chennai. We have presence in 25 cities worldwide. Next hot on our radar is India,” says Mr. Mecja, exuding confidence.

Multipurpose historic shophouses

On the next day of the stay, we follow Lyf representatives to explore some of the city’s hidden gems. We stop by Carnarvon Street that has a lineup of multipurpose historic shophouses in myriad styles and intended to play multiple roles as a shop, restaurant and living space. Kang Pei Shern, founder of Better than Blouses, a home-grown fashion brand that turns traditional batik and Peranakan patterns into chic pieces, along with artist Thomas Powell has set up studio in her family-owned pre-war shophouse.

View of shophouses
| Photo Credit:
K. Lakshmi

As we move in batches with careful steps for a studio tour, mindful of the century old structure’s fragility, Ms.Shern gives interesting fragments of information on shophouses. These two or three storied rowhouses are narrow in width but very deep. They were built in such a way to reduce window tax levied based on the number of windows during British colonial era, she recalls.

Later in the day, we are whisked away into fashion designer and chef Richard Rivalee’s Nyonya Cuisine restaurant tucked among a row of heritage shophouses and oozing old-world charm with hand-painted mosaic tiles, vintage fans and stained glass windows. The restaurant serves authentic Nyonya dishes, including aromatic five-spice chicken loh bak, lemongrass chicken, jiu hu char (shredded cuttlefish with vegetables) and a colourful choices of rice-turmeric rice, butterfly blue pea rice and Nasi Ulam (jasmine rice).

True to their character of Penang desserts known for mild sweetness and delectable mix of flavours, Richard’s signature sago pudding coated with grated coconut and gula melaka (palm sugar) dip and Bubur cha cha (a blend of sweet potato, taro and yam chunks in coconut milk) are not cloying and not to be missed.

George Town’s night life is as vibrant and offer a variety of surprises be it alcoholic gelatos and beverages at Drunken Gelato or Biso cocktail bar that excels in crafting unique flavours with unconventional ingredients-coriander, beetroots, carrots and bell peppers into their cocktails.

A trip to George Town, Penang is not complete without tasting authentic Penang white coffee, Tambun biscuits, pandan flavoured snacks and a visit to Chowrasta market.

(This writer was in George Town, Penang at the invitation of Ascott Limited’s Lyf Georgetown).