Bhutan has been open to tourists for 50 years. What has changed?

Whitewashed monasteries, pine forests and glacial rivers, Bhutan is the last Shangri La. A small country of 8 lakh people, economic progress here is measured in terms of happiness. For centuries, it remained in self-imposed isolation and today it offers a beguiling cocktail of Nature, adventure and culture.

Carissa Nimah

At Six Senses Thimphu, on my first day in the kingdom, I am blown away by the glass-walled lobby offering views of the mountains and valley. Situated amidst apple orchards and pine forests, it has a strong emphasis on wellness — from the healthy shots served for breakfast to holistic spa treatments, yoga and meditation sessions in a prayer pavilion. They have four other lodges across the country, and offer diverse experiences from lighting butter lamps to horoscope readings. My best experience here is a traditional hot stone bath in a wooden basin filled with river water and bushels of healing khempa (Artemisia) herbs.

It has been 50 years since Bhutan opened up the country for tourism, admitting just 300 travellers in 1974, and although five-star luxury hotels may not be the first thing that come to mind when one thinks of Bhutan, the policy of high-value, low-volume tourism has worked in its favour with top luxury brands like Aman, Six Senses, and Como Hotels, establishing business here.

Aman was the first luxury brand that entered the country almost 20 years ago and now has five luxury lodges across the country. “Having been Bhutan’s first and most-trusted international travel partner since the Kingdom opened to the world, Aman has spent nearly two decades fostering a profound connection to this landscape. Bhutan has since truly come of age as a premier destination, offering a unique and rare blend of Nature, culture, and spirituality that fascinates luxury travellers,” says Theo Cromhout, general manager, Amankora. (Combining Aman, Sanskrit for peace, with kora or circular pilgrimage in Dzongkha, the Bhutanese language, Amankora is a series of lodges in Bhutan’s central and western valley.)

Theo adds, “The Kingdom’s commitment to preserving its cultural heritage has made Bhutan highly desirable to discerning travellers seeking quiet luxury and exclusive, tailored itineraries. Amankora’s five distinct lodges, inspired by Bhutanese architecture, offer a circuit of Himalayan sanctuaries that invite guests to embark on enriching journeys through Bhutan’s central and western valleys — Paro, Thimphu, Punakha, Gangtey, and Bumthang.”

About 72% of the country remains forested and Bhutan boasts of being the only carbon-negative country in the world with protected areas larger than 1,000 acres. The Bhutanese government also sets a minimum nightly visitor tariff, the bulk of which is passed on to the national health and education systems. Typically, the fee levied amounts to ₹1,200 per day for Indians and $100 per day for foreign guests.

“As we aim to welcome two lakh visitors this year, with around 60% from India, Bhutan’s blend of pristine landscapes, culturally immersive adventures, rare experiences, and world-class hotels offers an unmatched combination of authenticity and depth that few destinations can replicate,” says Carissa Nimah, chief marketing officer, Department of Tourism, Bhutan.

Generally, group and private tours are the norm in Bhutan. There are high-end lodges all over the country with great chefs and wellness spas. Along with luxury hotels the country also promotes homestays, that offer a taste of everyday Bhutan and benefit the local communities. Festivals or tsechus that are held in different parts of the country are also crowd pullers.

Known for its African safari camps, andBeyond has launched its first Bhutan property, named andBeyond Punakha River Lodge — a luxurious tented camp by the Mo Chhu river in the Punakha Valley. It offers standalone tented suites as well as a two bedroom villa.

In Phobjika valley known for its black necked cranes which migrate here in the winter from Tibet,  a stay at Aman Gangtey, an intimate eight-room lodge, with Aman’s trademark minimalism meeting Bhutanese architectural elements, elevates the experience of being in this remote valley. There are timber ceilings, floor-to-ceiling glass windows which look down the valley, and coffee table books on Bhutan and Buddhism placed on tables.

The experiences offered by the property range from candle-lit dinners in an old potato shed, to meditating with a monk. Amankora Bumthang Lodge, located in the spiritual hub of the country, with 16 rooms situated next to the Wangduechhoeling Palace, which was the home of the first Bhutanese king, has its own luxury spa, and offers immersive experiences, like joining in a traditional fire blessing ceremony in a 7th Century temple and a farmhouse lunch in a village.

Most flights land and depart from Paro, which has its share of top end luxury properties starting with Como Uma Paro located on a hilltop, built around a reconstructed home, with large suites decorated with hand-painted Bhutanese designs. With nine private villas, 20 bedrooms and a Como Shambhala Retreat, this is pared back luxury at its best.  

Another stunning luxury property with river views is Marriott’s Le Meridien Paro Riverfront just 10 minutes from Paro International airport, with a spa, restaurants, and Bhutanese architecture lined with stylish dark hardwood floors and gold embellishments.

If you are looking for a home-grown Bhutanese luxury hotel that celebrates Bhutanese heritage, with many artisans engaged in its creation, then the stone-and-timber Zhiwa Ling Heritage hotel in Paro — that opened in 2015, set among tall cypress trees, set on 10 acres of land — is your best bet. It offers breathtaking views of the mountains, extensive grounds and even its own private temple. Its Royal Raven suite with its own shrine room has hosted royalty and celebrities from across the world.

Pemako Bhutan is the latest home-grown Bhutanese luxury brand to be launched, owned by Dasho Wangchuk Dorji, chairman of Bhutan’s largest private conglomerate, the Tashi Group, which has hotels and lodges in Thimphu and Punakha. The erstwhile Taj Tashi has been rebranded by them as Pemako Thimphu and the Punakha property has luxury tents with Bhutanese design. The Postcard Hotel, India’s luxury chain has also opened its first property in Thimphu — the Postcard Dewa, with 15 rooms nestled in a forest.

Many these properties do their bit towards being environmentally friendly and sustainable. Amankora’s lodges help in the restoration of old dzongs and support local schools through community service.

“Our King’s decision to maintain a high-value, low-volume tourism policy since 1974 has been crucial in preserving the country’s unique culture and environment. Bhutan still faces challenges related to tourism, such as the potential for cultural appropriation and the need to balance economic development with environmental protection. However, by continuing to adhere to its tourism policy, Bhutan can ensure that it remains a coveted luxury destination that offers visitors an unparalleled experience of tranquillity and authenticity which our neighbouring counties cannot,” says Garab Dorji, chairperson of the Guide association of Bhutan.

The King of Bhutan’s latest ground-breaking project is the Gelephu Mindfulness City in the South of Bhutan, touted to be a spiritual lifestyle destination. This special administrative zone will embody Buddhist principles and operate with its own currency and legal system. The aim is to invite select international businesses to establish themselves within the zone, with various privileges as well as hotels and homestays.

“While I don’t speak for all Bhutanese, my definition of luxury is undeniably shaped by my Bhutanese DNA. For me, luxury isn’t about opulence or excess; it’s the privilege of experiencing profound simplicity, breathing in pristine air, connecting with untouched landscapes, and embracing moments of deep mindfulness,” says Dorji Dradhul, former Director General  of Tourism Council of Bhutan & Department of Tourism. He adds, “Here, luxury is found in the serenity of Nature, the warmth of our people, and the richness of our culture — a journey that nourishes the soul. By this measure, there’s truly no place more luxurious than Bhutan.”