Pattachitra panels @ Kunsquad
Pallabi Sarangi, Priyabrata Mohapatra and Abhishek Deo might have different backgrounds (fashion and business respectively) but joined forces in 2021 to launch Kunsquad. “We shared this hunger to create something that felt personal, experimental, and expressive. What began as casual brainstorming slowly turned into moodboards, samples, ideas scribbled on tissue papers,” says Pallabi, 28. For those wondering what the brand’s name means, ‘Kuns’ means art in Afrikaans, and ‘squad’ stands for the team behind it.
The Pattachitra collection comprises unisex T-shirts, trousers, and corset tops
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Special Arrangement
Their first collection Wabi Sabi – A Love Letter to the Self was a limited edition collection of T-shirts and trousers. Their most recent drop, the Pattachitra collection — comprising unisex T-shirts, trousers, and corset tops — was their way of bringing heritage storytelling from Odisha into today’s street culture. “We have taken the intricate hand-painted art, usually seen on scrolls and temples, and translated it into oversized, genderless silhouettes. It’s a tribute to where we come from, but also a rebellion against how tradition is usually boxed in,” explains Pallabi. Research included a trip to Raghurajpur, a small village near Puri, Odisha, “where pattachitra has been kept alive for generations”. “Standing there, we knew this collection had to honour the soul of the craft. We made a conscious decision not to digitise the prints. Instead, we collaborated directly with the artists to hand-paint each piece. We chose materials like denim, kala cotton, khadi cotton, and soft cotton jersey as these fabrics can hold hand-painted detailing,” she says.
Outfits from the Pattachitra collection
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Special Arrangement
The process, she says, was intense. “We were co-ordinating with multiple artisans, going through countless trials, experimenting with surfaces, and trying to source naturally dyed fabrics wherever possible. Some materials rejected the paint, some designs did not translate well.”
The trio is now working towards creating a flagship space, and new collabs for upcoming collections.
Upwards of ₹3,500 on kunsquad.com
Zero Tolerance works with artisans across Uttar Pradesh who hand-spin, hand-weave fabrics and use algae-based pigment dyes
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Block stories @ Zero Tolerance
“I didn’t come from a fashion background,” says 27-year-old Prakhar Rao Chandel, who graduated inJournalism but later switched to fashion. “After I graduated, I spent a year researching cultural identity, storytelling, and fashion — which ultimately led me to start Zero Tolerance in 2020,” he says, adding that Zeeshan Akhtar, his childhood friend, joined the brand as co-founder later that year.
Outfits at Zero Tolerance
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The brand, championing Indian crafts and their makers, started with collections such as Proud Browns, Wild on the Streets, and a collaborative capsule with artist Sameera Sardana. “these were “more visual and graphic in nature”. “I didn’t have access to artisan clusters, so I worked with what I had: stories to tell and a passion for South Asian identity.” Later, he travelled, met NGOs, connected with textile engineers, and built his indigenous supply chain. “That led to collections like Homecoming, which featured handwoven fabrics, handspun yarn, and traditional embroidery, and it felt like a moment where everything clicked — where my storytelling met the soil,” says Prakhar, who now works with artisans across Uttar Pradesh who hand-spin, hand-weave fabrics and use algae-based pigment dyes.
An artisan at Zero Tolerance
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Prakhar recalls his childhood days when he tagged along with his mother to her boutique and was “mesmerised” by the tailoring process. “I didn’t know it then, but that was the moment something sparked. The idea that fabric could hold meaning, story, and intention — that stayed with me,” says Prakhar, adding how his college years and a semester abroad in London had him delve deeper into the arts.
Karm, was crafted in Lucknow, and debuted at London Fashion Week in September 2024
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His most recent line, Karm, was crafted in Lucknow and debuted at London Fashion Week in September 2024. Spotlighting techniques like hand-spun cotton, handwoven fabric, aari, and zardozi embroidery, the 11-piece collection comprised functional suits for men, co-ord sets, shirts, and jorts. Prakhar says it was “rooted in the idea of energy imprint — that every stitch carries the karma, the hard work, and the touch of the artisan”.
Karm comprised functional suits for men, co-ord sets, shirts, and jorts
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Special Arrangement
Currently working on the brand’s SS’25 collection Virasat, Prakhar says it is a homage and reimagination of royal block printing from Uttar Pradesh. For this, he has collaborated with Hari Shankar Pandey, a block printer who has been practising since the 1950s. “He uses 100+ year-old blocks sourced from a royal archive in Pratapgarh, and we’re honored to help bring his work into contemporary design,” he says, of the collection of skirts, dresses, shackets, and more.
Upwards of ₹5,500 on ztinternational.co/
For Like Water, the team worked with 36 artisans across 18 locations using 32 different crafts
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Shibori meerts Rabari @ Kardo
For founder Rikki Kher, the brand’s journey started from a personal place. “I was making clothes for myself and was encouraged to turn that into a business. While I initially explored an online model, I quickly shifted to a more traditional path, focussing on international wholesale,” says the 54-year-old. With a background in fashion, Rikki “wanted to push back against fast fashion” and launched Kardo in 2013.
Like Water comprises shirts, co-ord sets, dresses, and skirts
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Special Arrangement
Kardo, he says, was built as a “slower” platform to highlight traditional techniques. “Our early collections were simple, well-tailored, and made with handwoven fabrics and craft processes,” he says. The first collection, he explains, included Jodhpuri suits made in cotton French Terry jersey (that sweatshirts are made with), handloom denim suits, khadi shirts, ikat weaves, and deadstock camouflage.
Artisans at Kardo
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Rikki’s most recent drops — Like Water and Sadda Vedha — continue to highlight craft techniques. “For Like Water, we worked with 36 artisans across 18 locations using 32 different crafts and making 62 fabrics,” says Rikki, who works with artisan clusters across the country. The collection comprising shirts, co-ord sets, dresses, and skirts includes block printing, hand-embroidery, natural dyeing, Gond painting, shibori dyeing, Rabari appliqué work, to name a few.
Outfits from Like Water
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Special Arrangement
As for Sadda Vedha, the SS26 collection drop, Rikki says he returned to the idea of the courtyard, also called aangan. “It’s a space that’s been central to homes across India. It’s where families gather, stories are shared, and memories are quietly made in the rhythm of everyday life. This collection is rooted in that feeling of stillness, warmth, and togetherness.” With khadi and embroidery as prominent facets of the range comprising shirts, shorts, trousers and jackets., Rikki says crafts such as ari, ikkat, and phulkari, have been used alongside handloom weaving techniques.
Upwards of ₹3,250 on kardo.co
