Manish Malhotra at Dubai Fashion Week’s finale showcase
| Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
A parade of sequins, pearls and brocades on the runway; the likes of filmmaker Karan Johar, businessman Adar Poonawalla, and actor Urmila Matondkar on the front row; and supermodels Valery Kaufman and Adriana Lima opening and closing the show respectively — one would think this was just business as usual for one of India’s most renowned fashion designers, Manish Malhotra. But there was a twist of course. The mise en scène for Manish’s latest runway outing was not at a venue in Mumbai, where his label is headquartered. Instead, he decided to go international, bagging the spot of the finale showcase at Dubai Fashion Week, the first-ever Indian designer to do so.
An outfit designed by Manish Malhotra
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement
“Dubai has always been a city that appreciates grandeur, craftsmanship and timeless style,” says Manish, adding that 16-18% of his business comes from the Middle East. The designer, who received an investment from Reliance Brands for a 40% stake in his business in 2021, opened his flagship store in Dubai a year ago. But he has had a sway over the NRIs and locals — including members of the royal families of Saudi Arabia, Qatar and the UAE — since long before that.
A creation by Manish Malhotra
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement
A large part of this can be attributed to the pivotal role he has played in building the fabric of Indian cinema. Manish has, after all, been the costume designer and stylist for cult hits like Rangeela (1995), Kuch Kuch Hota Hai (1998) and Kabhi Khushi Kabhie Gham (2001) among many others in his three decades in the industry. And then there is his army of A-list celebrity patrons — think everyone from the late Sridevi, Rekha, Kareena Kapoor Khan, and Alia Bhatt to Jennifer Lopez and Kim Kardashian. “I have designed for some of the most inspiring women across generations, and expanded the brand into spaces beyond fashion, like high jewellery and film production,” says the designer who also celebrates 20 years of his eponymous brand and 35 years in cinema in 2025.
An outfit from World Collection: Dubai
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement
Manish feels that while fashion and cinema gave him the canvas to tell stories, it also imbued in him a zest to embrace new ideas and cultures while staying rooted in the essence of his brand’s DNA. And his ‘World Collection: Dubai’ was a case in point. The designer who is known for the glamour and sensuality of his occasion wear, spent a year researching how this can be adapted for the Middle Eastern market and their modest fashion preferences.
The line comprises abayas, pantsuits, kaftans, gowns and jackets
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement
“Unlike in India, where traditional wear often shows off the midriff, here there is a clear inclination towards high-waisted ensembles, structured layers and flowing silhouettes.” So, Manish rethought his signature sequins and pearls, chikankari elements from his Mijwan collections and handwoven brocades into a line of abayas, pantsuits, kaftans, gowns and jackets. “Indian craftsmanship is at the heart of everything I do, and I wanted to give that a more contemporary expression with this collection,” he explains.
Outfits from the new range
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement
Manish also believes there is no time like the present for India’s craft and textile legacy to enjoy its due in the global spotlight. “Consumers around the world are looking for authenticity. They want to know the story behind what they wear. They want to connect with the artistry, the techniques, and the hands that create it. And that is where India has such a strong edge. It is not just about fashion, it is about educating through craft and showing the world what makes our brands so special.”
Published – February 26, 2025 03:24 pm IST
