In Frames | Sungudi shimmer

Folklore tells of two handloom weavers who were resting on the banks of the Vaigai river. Inspired by the star-spangled night sky, they invented the tie-and-dye motif that has now become synonymous with Madurai. This signature styling on traditional cotton saris was awarded the GI tag on December 12, 2005.

Perfected by the Saurashtrian community that had migrated from Gujarat to Madurai in the 17th century, these iconic saris reveal the artistic and exquisite talent of the weaver.

On a base cloth mostly woven with a zari border, artisans painstakingly hand-knot the required patterns. This is then dyed in various shades. Later, the knots are untied and after a final wash to remove excess dye, it is starched and left to dry in the sun. It is then that the sari reveals an intricate design, with some bearing more than 15,000 quirky white dots.

Now, these breathable garments are a must-have in the wardrobes of both the young and the old. For a cotton sari to transform into a sungudi, it takes more than 15 days.

With prices ranging from Rs. 500 to even Rs. 20,000 depending on the thread count, this timeless handloom art needs the much-needed nudge to be showcased in international fashion shows.

Text by Beulah Rose

Photo:
G. Moorthy

Sungudi sarees mostly come in dual-tone colour palette.

Photo:
G. Moorthy

A plain dyed cloth with zari work being readied by the artisans for the dyeing process.

Photo:
G. Moorthy

The dyeing process taking place at a unit in Madurai.

Photo:
G. Moorthy

Women painstakingly make knots before the tie and dye process in the manufacturing of a sungudi saree in Madurai.

Photo:
G. Moorthy

Sungudi sarees crisp with starch laid out to dry at the facility service centre in Madurai.

Photo:
G. Moorthy

Block prints are sometimes used to given the sungudi sari a modern look.

Photo:
G. Moorthy

A worker dyes the saris at a unit in Madurai.

Photo:
G. Moorthy

Once dyed, the material is starched and left to dry in the sun.

Photo:
G. Moorthy

Sungudi sarees finally in the hands of buyers who are being shown the design and intricate work.