“I’ve seen a lot of black and white during my childhood. It’s ironic my label is known for its vibrant colours,” Aisha Rao says with a laugh. The Hyderabad-based designer recalls her parents, both lawyers, heading to court in their black robes. “My mother was textile-aware. She wore Kota and jamdani in muted tones for work, and Kanjeevarams, Gadwals, ikats and kalamkaris for special occasions.” Subconsciously, Aisha developed a fondness for textiles and fashion.
At the recently concluded Lakmé Fashion Week X FDCI, Aisha showcased her Spring-Summer 2026 collection, Inter-Hana. Departing from her label’s signature vivid palette, the collection leaned featured ensembles in champagne browns, teal blues, metallic greys and ivory whites. The colour story, she says, is aligned with the monsoon season when the collection will hit stores, with deeper hues arriving closer to winter. The muted tones also allow the surface design to stand out.
The collection draws from Japanese artist Fumi Imamura’s abstract florals, inspired by botanical folklore from Japan’s Aichi region. Inter-Hana explores a synergy between Indian craft and Japanese minimalism — ‘inter’ meaning between, and ‘hana’, the Japanese word for flower.
Her love for craft comes through in a mesh-like base textile, created with layers of organza and tulle for translucence, interspersed with lurex for fluidity, and finished with lace-like borders. Silhouettes range from structured corsets to fluid drapes.
Since launching her label in 2018, Aisha says the focus has been on constant evolution. “We’ve learnt that it takes about six months for a collection to truly settle; when you understand what works and what doesn’t.”
Driven by patronage
From ideation to unveiling, building a full-fledged collection involves constant trial. “A design team works with craftspeople to develop motifs and silhouettes, making changes along the way. Another team ensures the business runs smoothly. Patronage drives everything. If we need 35 pieces, we begin with 45 sketches — not all ideas make it to the final collection,” says Aisha.
Aisha Rao
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement
Craft remains central to her work. Embroidery and embellishments are chosen to suit the fabric, also factoring in time and cost. “We often look inward to understand what works for us, but we also observe how established houses like Dior approach design in a more scientific way. Our processes are labour-intensive, and we don’t have the luxury of time. It’s chaotic, for sure.”
Her inspirations range from Art Deco architecture to botanicals, though she finds herself repeatedly returning to Nature. “Even if a bedtime rhyme sparks an idea, we interpret it through flora, fauna, or even the stars.”
While a larger theme anchors the collection, there is room to adapt to practical needs. “If there is a sponsor, they may come with a colour brief. Our previous collection, Wild at Heart, was inspired by Kohler — interpreted as both free-spirited and rooted in the natural world. We worked with lush green and teak berry tones.”
At times, personal moments feed into her work. A wedding in Spain, for instance, inspired a collection rooted in Barcelona, accompanied by a campaign shot across its iconic neighbourhoods and landmarks.
Is fashion sustainable?
A fashion and apparel design alumna of Istituto Europeo di Design in Barcelona, Aisha credits both the university and the city for shaping her inclination towards sustainability. “Spain has been a pioneer in green energy, and sustainability was a buzzword at our university.”
A model sports an ensemble from Aisha Rao’s Inter-Hana collection
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement
Label Aisha Rao began with a focus on “upcycled luxury”, repurposing garment waste into occasion wear. She admits sustainability is easier said than done. “Every bead or sequin used in embellishment isn’t truly sustainable. My options were to stay loom-focused with handwoven cottons and silks, or strike a balance by using sustainable fabrics and embellishing them. I chose the latter.” After introducing Benaresi last year, she plans to work with chanderi and ikat next.
After Barcelona, Aisha studied garment construction and sewing at Parsons, New York. But this followed a law degree from the National University of Juridical Sciences, Kolkata — a decision that came from the belief at home that fashion was not a viable career option. “Law felt like a safe backup,” she says, adding that while she briefly considered corporate law, she realised it wasn’t for her.
With three stores in Delhi and one each in Hyderabad and Mumbai, her label has seen steady growth. She now wants to assess what works across cities and stores. A new factory is coming up in Sanath Nagar, Hyderabad. “We debuted at India Couture Week in 2025, and now the aim is to build our reputation and stay for the long run.”
Published – April 02, 2026 07:30 am IST
