The dusty-rose, lace-trimmed folding fan paired with corsets, hoodies and trainers by Fenty x Puma at Paris Fashion Week in 2016 marked Rihanna’s playful imagining of Marie Antoinette at the gym, reigniting fashion’s fascination with blending aristocratic glamour and athletic ease. The dialogue was first shaped by Alexander McQueen and Vivienne Westwood in the 1990s and echoed in Burberry’s four-piece capsule collection launched last month as a centenary tribute to Queen Elizabeth II. Now, Mumbai-based designer Maheka Mirpuri drives the narrative home with a collection that envisions a modern maharani — inspired by the third Maharani consort of Jaipur (1940 to 1949) Gayatri Devi — stepping onto the pickleball or padel court.
Called Maharani Athleisure, the Spring/Summer 2026 edit is an extension of the designer’s Fall/Winter Diwali collection called Modern Maharani
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Called Maharani Athleisure, the Spring/Summer 2026 edit is an extension of the designer’s Fall/Winter Diwali collection called Modern Maharani; though birthed by the same inspiration, both stamp a distinct signature on the design register. “Gayatri Devi was my inspiration for Modern Maharani and I have always been inspired by the quiet strength and the inner grace of a maharani; Maharani Athleisure meets that modern Maharani at the sports arena,” Maheka says, on a Zoom call. While elaborating on striking a balance between the collection’s elevated design and comfort, she first mentions the zippers.
A jacket from the limited-edition collection comprising 86 garments
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“Zippers instantly give a sporty feel. The collection comprises chunky, hand-painted jackets (with acrylic paint) with a lot of floral embroidery. They also feature Swarovski embellishments, ornate brooches and embroidered buttons,” she says.
The limited-edition collection comprising 86 garments also brings to mind American designer Jeremy Scott’s creatives for Adidas Originals, 2010, where he staged royal iconography on athleisure garments. In Maharani Athleisure the iconography leans into popular culture with Mexican artist Frida Kahlo’s portrait on a deep orange jacket and a floral blue gilet.
In Maharani Athleisure the iconography leans into popular culture with Mexican artist Frida Kahlo’s portrait on a deep orange cape-like jacket
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There are several other techniques central to the collection, which build on rococo floral aesthetics too. “The collection has fabric rosettes. We’ve done them on the bolero jacket in organza net. You will also notice thick chains on these jackets and sequins too because I wanted the girl to look very powerful while playing. You can also spot beaded embroidery, pearl embroidery, crochet and cutwork,” says Maheka, adding that the capsule was created in a span of five months.
The collection builds on rococo floral aesthetics too
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The collection plays with colourful stripes creating a palette that oscillates between turquoise, lime, pink, yellow and pastels. It comprises co-ord tracksuits, harem pants, shirtdresses, crochet pants, zipper pants, bolero jackets, straight dresses, no-fit oversized jackets and shirts with exaggerated sleeves.
The edit’s shirts with exaggerated sleeves
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Reminiscent of Adidas, the collection plays with colourful stripes
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Though the mention of royalty brings to mind textured silhouettes and opulent textiles like silk and brocade, Maheka has relied heavily on French taffeta for this edit. One of the reasons is its tendency to absorb paint. “For this collection, I have also used French organza, cotton, and linen. But taffeta is the best fabric. It’s French, it’s expensive, and you get it in beautiful colours. Taffeta is a bit stiff, so it gives me the kind of volume I want for exaggerated shoulders or cuffs. I have also fused crochet with denim because denim is light and easy,” she explains.
Maheka has relied heavily on French taffeta for this edit
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Another highlight of the collection is the suspenders. In Maharani Athleisure, they serve as the bulletin board for all the creative, edgy symbolism that defines Maheka’s idea of boho. “I wanted to have suspenders because I feel they have got that masculinity but are also a must-have athleisure accessory. I have embroidered the suspenders. There’s threadwork, buttons, safety pins, evil eye — I just want it to be very fun yet boho,” she says.
Another highlight of the collection is the suspenders
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Suspenders in the collection serve as a bulletin board for all the creative, edgy symbolism that defines Maheka’s idea of boho
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Though Indian fashion’s interpretation of royal-meets-athleisure started with Manish Arora’s maximalist aesthetics, it is slowly carving a niche of its own, sometimes sharing the shelf with streetwear and on other occasions doing the tightrope between resortwear and ath-luxury fusion. Maheka’s Maharani Athleisure throws the ball in our court, inviting a sharper examination of where Indian athleisure is headed and how far it can stretch to absorb the codes of royalty.
The collection, priced upwards of ₹10,500, will be available from April 7 at Maheka Mirpuri Atelier, 469, Veer Savarkar Marg, Opp. Gammon House, Prabhadevi, Mumbai and mahekamirpuri.com
Published – April 06, 2026 06:05 pm IST
