I grew up in Guwahati in the 1990s, a time when Assam rarely made it to national conversations, let alone global news. It was often defined by insurgency, bandhs, and a sense of isolation — both geographical and cultural. Yet, life carried on in its own unhurried rhythm. Rainy mornings smelled of petrichor, afternoons were reserved for siestas and freshly brewed lal cha, and summer evenings unfolded by the Brahmaputra’s banks. Bihu and Durga Puja brought the city alive, momentarily dissolving the troubles of the time. But for those beyond its borders, the state remained a distant, unfamiliar land — reduced to tea gardens, dense forests, and one-horned rhinoceros. The idea of it as a thriving tourism hub felt improbable.
Tea gardens in Golaghat
| Photo Credit:
ANI
Cut to 2025, and Assam is making headlines for all the right reasons. There was the recent UNESCO addition of Charaideo Moidams — the 700-year-old mound burial system of the Ahom dynasty, often called the ‘Pyramids of India’ — to its World Heritage List. It has brought the medieval kingdom’s legacy into the global spotlight, leading to the announcement of a new Charaideo Museum. The state, which banks heavily on its wildlife destinations to attract tourists, has also declared Sikhna Jwhwlao, a vital corridor between Manas and Raimona National Parks, as its eighth national park, further cementing its reputation as a biodiversity hotspot. The fact that Assam was ranked No. 4 on The New York Times’ ‘52 Places to Go in 2025’ list — for its “incomparable biodiversity”, “tea estates and river islands”, and its deep-rooted history and indigenous cultures — has also added to the buzz.
And the developments don’t end there. Luxury tourism is on the rise with The Postcard Hotel’s debut in the Durrung Tea Estate and Reliance’s partnership announcement with the Oberoi Group to build a seven-star hotel. Is Assam finally on the brink of a long-awaited tourism breakthrough?
In Kaziranga
| Photo Credit:
Ritu Raj Konwar
The numbers speak
Tourist arrivals in Assam have surged dramatically over the past five years, signalling a shift in the state’s travel landscape. Domestic footfall, which had plummeted to just 13.5 lakh in 2020-21 due to the pandemic, rebounded sharply to 98.12 lakh in 2022-23 before settling at 70.36 lakh in 2023-24. International arrivals tell a similar story — rising from a mere 347 in 2020-21 to a high of 26,128 last year, according to Assam Tourism. Come summer, when temperatures climb to a toasty 32 degrees Celsius, the state government hopes the numbers will increase even more.
Tourists at Diphlu River Lodge
| Photo Credit:
Courtesy Rare India
In aid of this, last month, at the Advantage Assam 2.0 Summit held in Guwahati, the state secured ₹4.91 lakh crore in investments, with 270 MoUs signed, focusing on tourism, culture, and hospitality. At a time when overtourism in popular destinations such as Goa and India’s many hill stations — and its attendant troubles of environmental degradation, rising real estate costs, and overstretched infrastructure — are driving tourists to seek less congested options, Assam hopes to step up as a tranquil alternative.
“Earlier, people only knew about Kaziranga [home to the endangered rhino] and, to a lesser extent, Manas. Now, with Instagram and content creators, even community festivals that were once local events are getting national attention,” says Amit Kumar, executive editor of EastMojo, one of the Northeast’s leading digital multimedia news platforms. He points to hidden gems such as Goalpara’s Jain Caves and Kaipholangso Waterfall in Karbi Anglong, now weekend destinations thanks to social media creators seeking fresh, high-engagement content. “With insurgency at an all-time low [according to Minister of Home Affairs Amit Shah this week, “violent incidents in the state decreased by 70%”], previously inaccessible regions are now welcoming more visitors,” he adds.
Amit Kumar
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Special arrangement
The state is also further strengthening its appeal. There are the ‘Awesome Assam’ campaigns in other Indian states, proactive tourism initiatives, better road and digital connectivity, and the introduction of a tourist police force to ensure visitor safety. The Guwahati airport is undergoing a major expansion, too. Scheduled to open soon, it is increasing its runway capacity and will be able to accommodate 13.1 million passengers annually.
Rural tourism is coming up, with homestays in Majuli, Goalpara and Nagaon offering immersive experiences. “I work with women to help them set up homestays — not just as a business but as a way to introduce authentic Assamese culture to travellers,” says Arijit Purkayastha of Koyeli Tours and Travels. Tea tourism, once confined to specific seasons, is also expanding, reinforcing Assam’s position as a year-round destination.
Rise of boutique travel
There’s a shift towards experience-driven tourism as well, exemplified by hospitality brands such as The Postcard Hotel. Set within the 140-year-old Durrung Tea Estate, their first boutique property in the Northeast marks a turning point for high-end hospitality in a region long overlooked by luxury travellers.
“From the very inception of The Postcard in Durrung Tea Estate, we recognised the immense potential of India’s Northeast. Durrung stood out for its accessibility, deep-rooted tea legacy, and seamless connection to Assam’s culture and wildlife,” says founder and CEO Kapil Chopra. In 2022, the Assam government allowed tea estates to use 5% of their land for eco-friendly tourism.
Kapil Chopra
| Photo Credit:
Courtesy The Postcard Hotel
“We chose Assam as our first destination in the Northeast for a very strategic reason: India’s tea trails begin here. Durrung is also surrounded by five national parks and offers excellent accessibility — just three hours from Guwahati, two from Itanagar, and 15 minutes from Tezpur airport, which is being upgraded,” states Chopra, adding that instead of a large-scale development that disrupts the place’s natural beauty, “we’ve taken a more thoughtful approach, with just 12 rooms spread across 1,400 acres of pristine tea estate”.
At The Postcard in Durrung Tea Estate, life moves at the unhurried pace of the tea pluckers. Mornings begin with a tea appreciation masterclass led by an estate sommelier, where guests learn to distinguish the finest Assam brews. Meals are a deep dive into the region’s flavours, from tangy tenga curries to smoked meats prepared with age-old tribal techniques. Days unfold with immersive excursions — a visit to Sengeli Mari Gaon, where 500 women weave eri and muga silk, or a hike through Nameri National Park, a paradise for birdwatchers. “What’s really special about Assam is how beautifully untouched and deeply engaging the state is. Every experience here offers a deep connection to history and tradition.” Assam, Chopra believes, has all the makings of a premier luxury travel destination — it just hasn’t been positioned that way until now.
Chalets at The Postcard in Durrung Tea Estate
| Photo Credit:
Courtesy The Postcard Hotel
From December to March, a new three-month Brahmaputra Carnival in Guwahati is offering river cruises, water sports, and glamping in luxury tent on islands. It is being projected as the biggest festival of the Northeast.
Navigating the road ahead
Addressing key infrastructural gaps is a priority add travel experts. “For boutique hotels to flourish and promote Assam’s unique culture and flavour, I can only hope the government puts some policies in place,” says Shoba Rudra, founder partner of Rare India, one of India’s leading aggregators of boutique properties. Though the state has come far since a 2020 study published in the International Journal of Management, Technology, and Social Sciences noted that Assam suffers from “lack of infrastructure and communication bottlenecks, apart from general geographical isolation”, making travel cumbersome for visitors, there is still a way to go.
Shoba Rudra
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Special arrangement
“Assam was once synonymous with wildlife tourism, but now we’re seeing an interest in archaeology, culinary, religious and even dance tourism, with people travelling to learn Sattriya — the classical dance form that originated in Vaishnavite monasteries”Arijit PurkayasthaFounder-director of Koyeli Tours and Travels, one of Assam’s largest DMCs
While cities such as Guwahati have seen rapid development, many promising destinations — especially in Upper Assam and the hill districts — remain difficult to access. Initiatives such as the Assam Tourism (Development and Registration) Bill, 2024, and the tea tourism scheme, which aims to develop 50 estates as tourism hubs, signal progress.
Devotees at Maha Mrityunjay Temple in Assam
| Photo Credit:
PTI
Is this growth sustainable?
“We are aware of the adverse impact of tourism elsewhere in the country, and beyond,” says Assam’s tourism minister Ranjeet Kumar Dass. “While trying to increase tourism and promote new destinations, we want the activities to be sustainable.” However, many are sceptical. “Sustainability is always considered after reaching a certain point of growth. Assam hasn’t reached that point yet,” says Amit Kumar of EastMojo. He is especially critical of cosmetic tourism projects such as the planned beautification of Deepor Beel, Assam’s only Ramsar site. “There have been a lot of plans for cycle tracks and light shows, but what will you beautify if you don’t protect it?” Waste mismanagement remains a major concern, and Kumar has flagged illegal mining, deforestation, and poorly planned infrastructure as growing threats. Additionally, Assam’s seismic vulnerability is often overlooked in planning — all vital factors that should be considered while putting tourism policies in place.
“Kaziranga is adequately promoted, but Majuli is yet to hit critical mass. The cultural context of these places holds a lot of interest, as do Assam’s textiles and crafts, which have immense potential yet to be explored,” Rudra concludes.
With inputs from Rahul Karmakar
Changemakers’ select
Rima Das picks Majuli
The state’s rise as a travel destination isn’t just about its landscape and heritage; it’s also driven by its people. Five Assamese trailblazers, from filmmaker Rima Das to musician Papon, give their travel tips.
Rima Das
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Special arrangement
Rima Das, filmmaker
“In Majuli, visit the satras, and stay in a chang-ghar”
The filmmaker behind India’s official entry to the 2019 Academy Awards, continues to push the boundaries of Assamese cinema with the film’s sequel. Village Rockstars 2 received a phenomenal reception at the Berlinale last month. Known for her intimate, visually rich storytelling, Das has been instrumental in bringing Assamese cinema to the global stage. “Assam has long been known for its storytelling traditions, and now, with global recognition, there’s even more curiosity about its cinema,” says Das, who has collaborated on My Melbourne, an anthology film focused on inclusivity.
For Das, Majuli — one of the world’s largest river islands — is a must-visit for its nature, culture, and spirituality. “Every time I visit Majuli, it reminds me of how deeply storytelling is woven into Assamese life. It is home to over 30 satras [Vaishnavite monasteries established by saint Sankardev in the 15th century].”
Majuli
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Special arrangement
“I once met an old monk in a satra who recited ancient tales with such emotion that I felt transported to another time. These satras are not just religious spaces, but living museums of art, music and folklore.” She also recommends visitors to the state try the traditional Mising thali featuring sweet and sour fish curry, rice steamed in banana leaves, and apong (rice beer). And for an immersive island experience in Majuli, a heritage chang-ghar (stilt house).
Purnima Devi Barman
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Special arrangement
Purnima Devi Barman, wildlife biologist
“Visit Sikhna Jwhwlao for its golden langurs”
Named Time magazine’s Woman of the Year 2025, Barman’s journey began in the paddy fields of Pubmajirgaon. Determined to save the greater adjutant stork (hargila), once seen as a bad omen, she took a grassroots approach, forming the all-women ‘Hargila Army’ in 2007. By blending science with tradition, she turned conservation into a cultural movement, hosting baby showers for storks and integrating them into Assamese festivals. In the last decade, the hargila population has grown from 450 to over 1,800.
Golden langur
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Special arrangement
Barman champions Assam’s lesser-known biodiversity hotspots, urging travellers to explore beyond Kaziranga. Apart from the two big ones, “Assam has six other national parks, including the newest, Sikhna Jwhwlao, each with its own beauty and biodiversity”, she says. At Sikhna Jwhwlao, she asks visitors to keep their eyes peeled for the golden langur, which is “only found in this region”, as well as rare butterfly species such as Moore’s Cupid. “Walking through the forest feels like stepping into another world.”
Jahnu Barua
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Special arrangement
Jahnu Barua, filmmaker
“Tezpur has stories of ancient kingdoms and legendary battles”
The 12-time National Award-winning director has shaped Indian cinema with his deeply humanistic storytelling. Barua’s films, including Halodhia Choraye Baodhan Khai (1987) and Bonani (1989), have brought Assamese cinema global recognition. This year, he also found unexpected fame as an actor, with his role as Uncle Ken in Paatal Lok 2. “This was the first time I saw a genuine approach to portraying the Northeast, so I accepted the role,” he says with a laugh.
Barua laments the general lack of national awareness about Assam. “Elsewhere in India, they have this notion that Assam is almost primitive. But we have a rich history, where men and women are equal, and dowry is unheard of.” He believes that the best way to understand Assam’s history and culture is to engage with its living traditions and historic centres. One such place is Tezpur, a city steeped in mythology and history.
Artists perform the Japi dance in Tezpur
| Photo Credit:
ANI
“It is not just about scenic beauty or tea gardens — it holds stories of ancient kingdoms, legendary battles, and even connections to the Mahabharata. It’s where history and folklore blend seamlessly.” Barua also highlights Hajo, a town that reflects Assam’s inclusive spiritual fabric. “It’s one of the few places where Hinduism, Islam, and Buddhism coexist harmoniously. That itself tells you what Assam is about.”
Papon
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Special arrangement
Papon, musician
“Try a river cruise where every bend brings a shift in rhythm, flavour, and identity”
Angaraag Mahanta, popularly known as Papon, has delivered unforgettable hits such as ‘Moh Moh Ke Dhaage’, ‘Jiyein Kyun’ and ‘Kaun Mera’. Beyond Hindi movies, his independent work carries the soul of his home state, shaped by its rich folk traditions and unique cultural crossroads.
Papon describes Assam as the bridge between India and the Far East. “I was lucky to be born in a place where I could grasp both worlds — western and eastern music, and of course, Indian music.” He is also passionate about showcasing Assam’s cultural depth. His latest project, a film-in-progress, traces the Brahmaputra’s journey from Assam to Bangladesh, and is intended to explore the river’s role as a lifeline of traditions, music and cuisine. He sees a river cruise as an immersive way to discover Assam’s hidden gems, from remote tribal villages to centuries-old spiritual sites.
River cruise
| Photo Credit:
Courtesy Rare india
“I’ve taken a short trip before, but this time, I want to travel its entire length in Assam,” Papon says. “Every bend in the river brings a shift in rhythm, flavour, and identity. Through this film, I hope to showcase 10 to 11 distinct forms of music, ways of living, food traditions, and cultural expressions that thrive along the Brahmaputra.” Companies such as Antara Cruises and Assam Bengal Navigation help plan cruises.
Lovlina Borgohain
| Photo Credit:
Adimazes
Lovlina Borgohain, boxer
“In Karbi Anglong, try the local greens and smoked meats”
Last month, this boxing sensation made history once again by clinching gold at the 2025 National Games. The Olympic bronze medallist, who rose to global fame at Tokyo 2020, has become a driving force for Indian boxing, especially for women in the sport.
“There are so many talented young girls in Assam who can excel in boxing if given the right opportunities. We need more infrastructure and coaching at the grassroots level,” says Borgohain. Determined to inspire the next generation, she actively works to encourage young girls to take up the sport. Tourists can check out local tournaments, such as the Assam Inter-District Junior Boxing Championship (usually held mid year), and help spread the word. “If you want to truly experience Assam’s beauty, you must visit lesser-known places like Manja in Karbi Anglong. It’s a place of incredible natural beauty.
Tribal women return from weekly market in Karbi Anglong
| Photo Credit:
Ritu Raj Konwar
The traditional Karbi cuisine is a must-try — especially the aromatic Joha rice, wild greens, dried fish, smoked meats and fermented bamboo shoot dishes. The local weaves [like pini, a type of skirt, and choy-an, a jacket for men] and handicrafts also make for beautiful souvenirs.” Borgohain is hopeful that the global spotlight on Assam will extend to sports development as well, giving young athletes the support they need to shine.
The writer is an independent journalist and photographer who covers travel, food, culture and sustainability.
Published – March 14, 2025 03:15 pm IST
