It was not always a food hub. Race Course Road, one of Coimbatore’s most prominent stretches, has had many lives.
Originally, it was exactly what its name suggests: a racecourse where thoroughbred horses once thundered down the track. As the races faded into history, the land gave way to quiet, tree-lined residential streets. Bungalows with sprawling gardens and driveways defined the area, housing the city’s elite.
In the late 1990s, Race Course began evolving once again. Wide pavements made it a favourite among morning walkers and joggers, a reputation that still holds strong. But as foot traffic increased, so did the food activity. Eateries began to spring up — first a few bakeries and juice shops, then restaurants, cafés, and food stalls. Today, Race Course is more than just a fitness circuit. It has transformed into Coimbatore’s most vibrant food hub, offering everything from traditional Kongu delicacies to experimental street food.
We set out to explore this culinary track. (We gained more calories than we burned during our walk around Race Course.)
Hibiscus tea at Yes Yes Bakes
Hibiscus tea at Yes Yes Bakes
| Photo Credit:
Shibu Narayan
Our first stop is Yes Yes Bakes, a modest bakery that has stood the test of time. Nestled opposite the Horse and Jockey statue, it has been serving customers since 1999. Owner CR Sornam recalls the early days:
“When we started, Race Course was quiet. There were only a few walkers, and most people came here for exercise, not food. Our menu was simple — just tea, coffee, and a few snacks. But over time, as more people gathered here, we expanded.”
Today, their menu is extensive, featuring everything from egg bonda, cutlets, paniyaram, and Maggi noodles to unique beverages like hibiscus tea. Intrigued, we order a cup. It arrives steaming hot, a delicate floral aroma wafting from the deep red brew, with an actual hibiscus flower floating inside. The first sip is soothing, though a little less sugar would have made it perfect.
Dragon momos at Dappakaarar’s Momos Factory
Dragon momos at Dappakaarar’s Momos Factory
| Photo Credit:
Shibu Narayan
A few steps away, we spot a stall with a peculiar name: Dappakaarar’s Momos Factory. The name comes from owner Logeshwaran R’s family background in box-making (“dappakaarar” roughly translates to “box man” in Tamil). But his passion lies elsewhere: momos.
A former IT professional, Logeshwaran left his job to start his own food business after a trip to Assam introduced him to the world of authentic momos. He spent months researching recipes before launching a stall that now boasts 75 varieties.
We try his Dragon Momos, made with whole wheat flour and stuffed with spiced chicken. Instead of the usual mayo, it’s served with a fiery garlic chutney — a bold move that pays off.
“When we started in 2017, momos were mostly found in high-end restaurants. We wanted to make them accessible, so we experimented with different flavours like Guntur Kaaram Momos (Andhra-style) and Malabar Chicken Momos (Kerala-style). Race Course was the perfect location because it attracts people from all walks of life,” Logeshwaran explains.
Mud Soufflé at Café Totaram
Mud Soufflé at Café Totaram
| Photo Credit:
Shibu Narayan
Next, we step into Café Totaram, a warm, welcoming space adorned with Manto illustrations and quotes from Ismat Chughtai. A sign on the wall reads: “All sizes, colours, ages, cultures, aliens, religions, and beliefs safe here.”
The café is best known for its soufflés with ice cream, and we go for the chocolate soufflé topped with cold vanilla ice cream. The combination is divine with the warm, fudgy soufflé melting into the ice cream, creating a rich, creamy swirl.
Founder Ranjana Singhal, who also runs On The Go and All Rise, says: “We started with On The Go in 2010. When I look back 15 years, Race Course was very different—there were fewer high-rises and fewer dining options. Now, it’s a thriving food destination. The challenge for us now is keeping up with new generations, especially Gen Z and Gen Alpha. Despite the digital age, I’ve noticed that young people still love flipping through a physical menu. It’s a learning curve, and we adapt accordingly.”
Pichu Pota Kozhi at Valarmathi Mess
Pichu Pota Kozhi at Valarmathi Mess
| Photo Credit:
Shibu Narayan
From European-style soufflés, we head to a place that serves pure Kongu food: Valarmathi Mess. Established in 1986, this no-frills eatery has been visited by everyone from college students to celebrities like F1 racer Narain Karthikeyan and actor Vikram.
We order their signature Pichu Pota Kozhi, where tender, marinated chicken is slow-cooked in freshly ground spices and roasted to perfection. It’s a dish packed with deep, smoky, caramelised flavours.
Manager Sam, who has worked here for over a decade, says: “When we started, Race Course was mostly residential. But as the area changed, so did we. Having been here since 1986, we’ve had the privilege of serving almost two generations of customers. Many of them come back not just for the taste but also for the nostalgia. For instance, when the Law College was still here, its students were regulars at our Mess. Even now, those former students visit us, relive their memories, and share stories of the good old days.”
Ferrero Rocher ice cream at Richie Rich
Ferrero Rocher ice cream at Richie Rich
| Photo Credit:
Shibu Narayan
To wrap up our journey, we stop by Richie Rich, an ice cream parlour with a legacy dating back to 1977. Revived at Race Course by Vaishnav D, son of founder R. Dileep, the brand has stood the test of time.
We try the Ferrero Rocher ice cream with dark chocolate sauce — a hazelnut-infused delight, elevated by the bittersweet chocolate drizzle.
Though he complains of an increasing garbage disposal problem because of the proliferation of food joints and people, Vaishnav confirms Race Course has become the best hang out spot in the city.
Published – February 28, 2025 03:59 pm IST
