Tailors from West Bengal giving shape to blouses with precision and skill at Kiya Fashions boutique in Madurai.
| Photo Credit:
R. ASHOK
Madurai has always had a cautious approach to fashion. For long, it revelled in shimmering half-saris, pleated pattu pavadais and elegant Sungudi saris draped on the young and the old. Till the early Nineties, blouses were simple and well-defined, with brocade on the borders for a bridal look.
Cut to 2025, and no eyebrows are raised when a young bride shells out ₹1 lakh for a heavily zardozi-worked blouse. Fashion in Madurai has steadily evolved. With exposure to cinema, social media, and travels across the country, people are now drawn to fabrics, cuts, and embellishments. If Kushboo’s myriad blouses for a TV show tantalised the older generation, now, tailoring boutiques are drawing the younger crowd.
To cater to this varied customer base that is not just fashion conscious but also knows what it wants, these boutiques employ tailors from North India to create customised outfits, blending local weaves with patterns inspired by types of embroidery like aari work.
A few elegant pieces of handwork blouses at TANIHA design studio boutique in Madurai.
| Photo Credit:
R. ASHOK
S Preethi, who owns Kiya Fashions on Bypass Road, explains how things have changed in just a few years. “We began this journey with two tailoring units with local tailors,” she says. “The work was neat, but the finishing wasn’t what customers expected. After 2014, we brought in tailors from West Bengal. Their precision and speed lifted the quality — in this field finishing makes all the difference,” she adds.
Timeless designs
“When I first saw my bridal blouse, I was mesmerised,” says V Priya, 25 who recently got married in Madurai. “Every inch of the blouse was adorned with detailed handwork. The fitted cut highlighted my silhouette perfectly, while the back design added drama.” She chose the design as she wanted something that felt personal and timeless. “I wanted the blouse to stand out with intricate detailing. I also wanted to incorporate silk and traditional designs.”
Heavily worked lehengas in vibrant tones on display at Sasha The Bridal Rental Boutique in Madurai.
| Photo Credit:
R. ASHOK
Another bride, M Nithya, 27, says, “I was inspired by films and celebrity weddings, but also wanted something unique to me. The floral motifs and lace details transformed a simple blouse into a statement piece.” Preethi points out that handwork requires a very specific skillset. “In Madurai, it’s hard to find people who can do aari or similar embroidery. Bengalis and tailors from other North Indian states are trained from childhood — some start learning this work as early as 10 years old,” she says.
According to her, these artisans work long hours on detailing and fine-tuning of designs. That’s one of the reasons why many of her handmade pieces are entrusted to them. While many opt for simple patterns, brides often prefer elaborate designs. “Bridal attire features heavy embellishments such as zardozi, crafted with gold and silver threads, featuring pearls or stones. Such intricate work can take weeks to complete and typically costs more than aari embroidery due to its complexity,” says Preethi.
A few elegant pieces of handwork blouses at TANIHA design studio boutique in Madurai.
| Photo Credit:
R. ASHOK
Lehengas, once considered uncommon for brides in Madurai, have steadily gained popularity. Young women are increasingly adding them to their wardrobes, reflecting a gradual shift in the city’s approach to contemporary bridal fashion. Chowmya Srinivasan, who owns Taniha design studio in Gomathipuram, says, “We now get clients who want pattu pavadais with North Indian-style borders and bridal blouses that pair Kanjeevaram silk with mirror work or gota patti embroidery. A few years ago, that mix would have been unthinkable in Madurai.”
Nostlagic, yet experimental
She feels that the city’s growing exposure to destination weddings and cinematic fashion has added to the trend. “People used to avoid deep necklines or sleeveless, but now bring reference photos from celebrity weddings and ask for the same cut or colour palette. The new Madurai fashion is both experimental and nostalgic,” adds Chowmya.
However, there are still women who prefer traditional styles. “Even today, we see a comeback of classic designs such as temple motifs and peacock patterns. Fashion in Madurai is constantly changing, and trends keep reversing over time,” Preethi notes.
Heavily worked lehengas in vibrant tones on display at Sasha The Bridal Rental Boutique in Madurai.
| Photo Credit:
R. ASHOK
Customisation has become a major draw at boutiques across Madurai. “Many people prefer outfits tailored to their measurements. At the same time, technology and social media have exposed customers to fashion trends and styling ideas, which have contributed to the rise of boutiques in the city,” she explains.
While most of the fabrics are sourced from outside Tamil Nadu, particularly from Kolkata, as local suppliers do not provide materials such as Chanderi , crepe or dola silk, all the beads, threads, and other materials used for handwork are procured locally.
Heavily worked lehengas in vibrant tones on display at Sasha The Bridal Rental Boutique in Madurai.
| Photo Credit:
R. ASHOK
On Madurai Bypass, Sasha The Bridal Rental Boutique has become a destination for brides who want glamour without the heavy investment. K Sathyapriya, a fashion designer who runs Sasha, stocks a wide range of lehengas, from richly embroidered, pastel-toned ones to heavily embellished designs that are available both for purchase and rent. “Many families prefer renting a heavily-worked lehenga for the reception or mehendi,” she explains, “So brides can swap styles without having to commission a new one.” The rental models are especially popular among younger brides who desire standout designs but are budget-smart.
The little details
R Selvi, 57, recalls how film stars shaped their fashion choices in the 1980s. “We wore blouses with V-necks or closed necks, taking inspiration from the actresses of that time,” she says, adding: “Brides would use zari fabric for their blouses, and shops sold zari borders separately. These were attached to the sleeves or neckline of plain blouses, as they wished. Handwork was unheard of.”
Now as she does trousseau shopping for her daughter, on top of the list are embellished lehengas for mehendi and reception, blouses that have plunge necklines to heart shaped ones, sleeves that are sheer and some that have a structured cape cut. And when it comes to the back design, Selvi says, “I had to put my foot down as she wanted a backless look. I think Madurai still needs time when it comes to such a look.”
Published – October 10, 2025 12:42 am IST
