Designer Geethica Naidu tracing the journey of Pashmina from Ladakh to Bengaluru

Bengaluru-based designer Geethica Naidu’s debut collection, Pashm, is an ode to the breathtaking landscapes and rich nomadic heritage of Ladakh. The use of pashmina offers a glimpse into the rich, traditional craftsmanship of the region.

The collection was inspired by the uniqueness of the fibre and a deep curiosity to understand Pashmina’s origins and the life of nomadic communities. It was created to honour their way of life and bring their story to the forefront through design.

Pashm includes trench coats, long vest dresses, pleated skirts and fitted blazer jackets, with a colour palette with dominant shades of brown, in keeping with the undyed natural hues of pashmina wool.

From the Pashm collection.
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GURU

Speaking to Geethica from her studio AME in Mathikere in Bengaluru, feels like an extension of her collection, from walls displaying photographs of her nomadic journey to a loom centrepiece, the studio is where the visitors can get a glimpse of the nomadic life of Ladakh as well as her collection.

AME design studio.
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SPECIAL ARRANGMENT

Elaborating on the collection, Geethica traced the fascinating journey of pashmina — from the high-altitude landscapes of Leh to her studio in Bengaluru.

Free grazing of Pashmina goats.
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SPECIAL ARRANGEMENT

Grand strand

The story of pashmina, starts from the mighty Himalayas, amidst the rugged terrains of Kharnak, 1400 feet above sea level. Here, a small community of nomadic herders have been tending to the rare and unique Changthangi goats for generations, apart from their flocks of sheep and yak.

In the extreme cold of Himalayan winters, the Changthangi goats grow a warm undercoat — a soft protective layer that sustains them through the harshest months. “It is this protective layer that becomes the finest cashmere,” says Geethica.

the inner uncoat carefully combed by nomads.
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At the onset of summer, the inner undercoat is carefully combed and harvested by nomads, relieving the animals of their winter growth. “This whole process is testament of a mutual bond between herders and their flock; the herders care for the animals, who in turn provide them with their wool.” It is a cycle that is deeply entrenched in Ladakh’s pastoral tradition.

Once the fibre is collected, it is meticulously cleaned of any debris or stray hair, ensuring that only the finest wool remains. However, what was once a manual process using age-old methods, has been replaced by technological advancements.

“Today, the raw wool travels down to processing units in Srinagar, where machines make the cleaning process less laborious. One can typically harvest about 300-400 grams of wool from a single Changthangi goat, but once processed, what remains is just about 60 grams of soft wool. This is what makes pashmina extremely rare and expensive.”

It might not go extinct immediately, but in the near future we are seeing it happen, at least the nomadic life, says Geethica.
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After cleaning, the wool then finds its way to artisans, where it is painstakingly separated into fine strands. “Each thread is then spun by hand, carrying a warmth and essence of the land it comes from.” Traditionally, wool is later shifted for dyeing in natural colours. “For Pashm, each piece is crafted in undyed natural hues that are symbolic of our style and resonate with today’s global wardrobe.”

Rare luxury

However, pashmina, which is synonymous with luxury in the Western world, is on the brink of extinction. “Now that city life beckons, we see many nomads leaving their ancestral homes and moving there. Their needs have changed; they want their children to get an education and find a job in the city.”

Hence, what is left are the older generation, struggling to keep the craft alive. “It might not vanish immediately, but in the near future it will happen. Even if people continue to rear these goats in Leh, the altitude makes a lot of difference, as it affects the fibre quality. Ladakh has the harshest winter which creates the softest fibre.”

“One thing we can do as designers is bring in awareness through our products; the consumer must know these stories in order for the craft to survive. For this collection, we sourced wool directly from nomads as they hardly get paid enough for this labour-intensive process,” says Geethica.

Each piece in Pashm is a reflection of Geethica’s travels from Leh and the time she spent with the nomads. “When I envisioned this collection, I did not want to rely on just books and research, so we decided to travel up there. The biggest challenge was the altitude and getting in touch with the nomads. We were lucky enough to be graciously accepted into their community and the time I spent with these families is mirrored in my collection.”

“The most beautiful part of Pashmis that what started as a textile recce became more of a spiritual journey on the oral histories of nomadic life. These are the stories that need to be shared outside the Valley; only then we can help preserve this ancient craft.”