Fashion’s love affair with the breastplate

Global pop icon Shakira chose a sculptural Lunar Blue Wolf Gown for her maiden performance at the Las Mujeres Ya No Lloran World Tour 2025 in Rio de Janeiro, which marks her feisty return to the stage after seven years. The Colombian singer’s outfit, designed by Gaurav Gupta, featured a custom-molded metallic breastplate adorned with an intricate wolf motif. This also points at the return of the breastplate, an accessory that has made waves from mythology to modern fashion.

Shakira in a sculptural Lunar Blue Wolf Gown 
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Inspired by the idea of armour, Gaurav wanted to create something that was not as defensive but an outward expression of inner strength and beauty. “The breastplate is a sculptural yet ethereal statement, celebrating the balance between protection and grace,” adds Gaurav, who also created the silver bustier that Alia Bhatt sported when she debuted at the Paris Fashion Week 2024 in September as L’Oréal Paris’s newly appointed global ambassador.

Breastplate designed for Alia Bhatt
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“The metal breastplate she (Alia) wore is part of our artistic journey, initiated in the Aarohanam collection at Paris Couture Week Spring/Summer 2024. The piece was custom moulded to her form and took about 50 hours for craftspersons to perfect,” says Gaurav.

Gaurav Gupta
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The designer’s interpretation points towards the ever-evolving nature of the breastplate that was once purely used as protective gear in ancient Greece. It was typically made with hammered bronze plates and boiled leather.

However, in the 1880s, the influence of the Victorian era metamorphosed the piece of armour into a form-fitting, long-waisted bodice known as ‘cuirass bodice’.

Many iterations later, the breastplate emerged on high fashion runways in the late 1960s and early 70s, having been embraced by prolific designers like Yves Saint Laurent and Alexander McQueen. A decade later, Japanese fashion designer Issey Miyake’s rendition of the breastplate Plastic Body became the centrepiece of his Bodywork series that highlighted experimental and sculptural garments.

In India, designer Suneet Varma was the first to take the plunge in 1991
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In India, designer Suneet Varma was the first to take the plunge in 1991. Inspired by Sandro Botticelli’s painting The Birth of Venus, he used breastplates for blouses and created quite a stir. The idea of combining the metal piece with a sari, he says, came from a deeper desire to challenge conventional boundaries of fashion and redefine how traditional attire could be worn.

“The sari is an iconic symbol of grace and femininity, but I wanted to infuse it with a sense of power and modernity. By pairing it with the elegance of a sari, I sought to create a visual metaphor for the modern Indian woman — someone who embodies both grace and courage,” shares Suneet. For him, it was all about creating a look that tells the story of empowerment — one that blends tradition with a forward-thinking approach to fashion. “Even its resurgence is a reflection of how fashion has moved beyond aesthetics to become a tool for women to express their personal journeys, identities and beliefs,” he shares.

Bollywood actress Sanya Malhotra in a sculpted gold breastplate by Samesisters, with a vintage sari by Shanti Banaras
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At the Anant Ambani and Radhika Merchant wedding last year, Radhika chose a custom toga designed by New York-based designer Grace Ling. The centrepiece was an aerospace aluminum breastplate that was made by a team of over 30 artisans. It was carved, sculpted and printed in 3D, showcasing the versatility of the craft. 

Last year, actress Sanya Malhotra wore a rich Kanjeevaram sari by Shanti Banaras with a bold, custom breastplate crafted by occasion-wear brand Samesisters. The brand’s founder, Sachi Raval, was given a brief to create a modern silhouette, which had its roots in India. “It felt like a dream brief because Samesisters is an exploration of what Indian wear means today. I am from the South of India and a big part of me is inspired by its culture. A Kanjeevaram breastplate fits in right,” she says.

Shakira poses with the sculptural Lunar Blue Wolf Gown designed by Gaurav Gupta
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Over time, the breastplate has transcended its traditional connotations, evolving into a piece that speaks to both masculinity and femininity without constraint, says Gaurav. “In our work, it’s about channelling inner power, not adhering to gender roles. Whether it’s worn by women or men, the breastplate symbolises transformation and rebirth, much like the mythological creatures that inspire it,” he adds.

Interestingly, the versatility of the breastplate makes it relevant across different periods. Gaurav highlights how it can work beautifully with overflowing gowns to contrast softness with structure, or as a bold layer over a minimalist silhouette allowing craftsmanship to shine. “It can be paired with high-waisted pants, as Alia did at Paris Fashion Week, or with a skirt for a powerful edgy look,” he says.

Custom Kanjeevaram Breastplate by Samesisters
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For a modern, power-driven look, the breastplate pairs exceptionally well with structured pantsuits or tailored blazers, offering a fusion of corporate and creative fashion, adds Suneet. “The breastplate adds an element of surprise to an outfit, making it stand out without overwhelming the rest of the ensemble. Its ability to transition from traditional to contemporary makes it an essential piece for those looking to push fashion boundaries,” he says.

Initially, the breastplate was seen as a statement piece worn by celebrities and socialites at high-profile events. However, over the years, there has been a growing demand from clients who are looking to incorporate bold and unique elements into their wardrobes for special occasions.

“Brides are increasingly drawn to the idea of making a powerful statement with their wedding attire and the breastplate adds an unexpected element to their ensemble. It’s not just confined to the red carpet anymore; women are exploring its versatility for events like cocktail parties, fashion-forward weddings, and even exclusive themed soirées,” says Suneet.

The sculpted breastplate can be seen as a form of rebellion against the censorship and objectification of the female body, says Sachi. Bold and unapologetic, she adds that it allows women to reclaim their bodies on their own terms, presenting it as art rather than something to be hidden or censored.