At the 2024 Paris and Milan fashion weeks, the Hermès Kelly bag was a standout accessory among attendees. In Paris, Vogue editors even noted an “unplanned Kelly parade” as influencers and fashion journalists in the front row flaunted Kelly bags in different styles, sizes, and colours, showcasing its versatility. Model Kendall Jenner was also spotted in Paris, wearing a dark grey power suit by The Row paired with a brown leather Hermès Kelly bag.
In India, the Ambani family has often been seen with the iconic Kelly. In October, Isha Ambani attended a Mumbai event with a custom Hermès Mini Kelly bag with diamond-encrusted charms spelling out her twins’ names, Aadiya and Krishna. Nita Ambani has also been spotted with various Hermès bags, including the ultra-rare Hermès Himalaya Birkin.
The Hermès yellow leather mini Kelly bag in the spotlight
| Photo Credit:
Jeremy Moeller/Getty Images
However, it was at the opening of the Nita Mukesh Ambani Cultural Centre in March 2023 that the Kelly truly took the spotlight in the country. Radhika Merchant, who married Anant Ambani, attended in a black Indo-western lace saree by Shahab Durazi, accessorised with a silver Hermès Kellymorphose mini bag valued at around ₹52 lakh.
In fact, in 2024, Hermès reported an 11% increase in sales in the third quarter, particularly through its leather goods, reaching €3.7 billion (over ₹335 crore). However, industry analysts remain optimistic about the company’s performance. Investment bank Stifel forecasts an 11.5% sales growth for Hermès in 2025, outpacing the anticipated 7% growth for the overall luxury goods sector.
Anvita Mehra, founder of Confidential Couture, a New Delhi-based platform for reselling pre-loved handbags, notes that the Hermès Kelly-20, or Mini Kelly, became the “it” bag in 2021 as Western consumers turned to exclusive luxury pieces. “The pandemic boosted demand for investment-worthy items, with people seeking pieces with high resale potential and timeless style. By the time this trend hit India, the mini Kelly had become a popular status symbol, fuelled by its presence on social media and among celebrities,” she explains.
For those hoping to buy a mini Kelly directly from Hermès in India, it is far from straightforward. Hermès has a unique model where customers must build a “profile” through consistent spending. “This usually involves spending at least ₹10 lakh on other Hermès items — accessories, shoes, home goods — before qualifying to buy a mini Kelly, which itself costs around ₹10-12 lakhs,” says Jharna Gianchandani, co-founder of Confidential Couture. In total, buyers might invest close to double the retail price to finally secure the bag.
Anvita says Hermès’ production of the Kelly remains highly limited, with distribution controlled regionally. “While India’s demand is rising, allocations here remain smaller compared to markets like the Middle East or the US. The two Hermès boutiques in Mumbai and one in Delhi operate on a “relationship-based” sales model where clients are encouraged to build a purchase history to be considered for a Kelly or Birkin,” she says.
Niti Goenka, co-founder of Mumbai-based My Almari (a pre-loved luxury marketplace) and a Kelly owner, says there has been a noticeable shift in demand for the bag in the last six months. “Take my sister, for example. She initially aimed for a Birkin but felt hesitant about going the pre-loved route, as she’d never bought secondhand before. Recently, though, she’s started leaning towards the Kelly. While the Kelly might be slightly easier to come by than a Birkin. But, getting the exact colour and size remains a challenge,” she says.
The Hermès Kelly green leather mini bag
| Photo Credit:
Jeremy Moeller/Getty Images
Over a year ago, Couture Confidential hosted a virtual auction (on WhatsApp) for a Mini Kelly 20 (in the highly desirable gold colour with gold hardware). Anvita informs us that the starting bid was ₹16 lakh, with the bag eventually closing around ₹19-20 lakh. Typically, sellers in the Indian secondary market are high-net-worth individuals with international profiles, often living between cities like Dubai, Mumbai, and Delhi. They may not reside in India full-time but maintain strong ties to India’s luxury scene.
“In India’s luxury resale market, the Mini Kelly can currently sell for upwards of ₹20-25 lakh, especially for rare colours or exotic materials”, says Jharna.
The Kelly’s popularity will not likely wane anytime soon. This mix of rarity, cultural cachet, and investment potential indicates that it will continue to attract fashion enthusiasts and collectors alike.
Writer and author of Fashion India, Dr Phyllida Jay believes the Hermès Kelly bag has long been an “it” bag for a certain kind of very wealthy woman in India. “Ten years ago, this was even gently parodied in the 2011 film Zindagi Na Milegi Dobara, where a Hermès Kelly, nicknamed ‘Bagwati’ and belonging to Natasha (played by Kalki Koechlin), was given its own name and a mini plotline,” she says. The Kelly is a different proposition from the Birkin, adds Phyllida, which is also widely popular with the ultra-wealthy in India. “You’ll often spot Birkins at places like Ananda in the Himalayas or The Lodhi Hotel in Delhi. However, the Kelly is arguably more refined and high-fashion, while the Birkin has started to feel a bit overdone,” she says.
The origin story
The Hermès Kelly bag, introduced in its modern form in 1935 as the ‘Sac à Dépêches,’ quickly became one of the brand’s most enduring icons. It wasn’t until 1956, however, that it gained its name, following a moment of media notoriety involving Grace Kelly, the American actress-turned-Princess of Monaco. While concealing her pregnancy from paparazzi, Kelly was photographed holding the bag in front of her belly. This iconic image not only made the bag instantly recognisable worldwide but also solidified its association with timeless luxury.
The bag is handmade by a single artisan in France, with the production of a single bag taking between 18 and 24 hours. Artisans undergo extensive training to master traditional saddle-stitching techniques, originally developed for equestrian gear, which enhance both the bag’s durability and aesthetics. The Kelly is crafted from a wide range of luxurious leathers, including togo, epsom, and exotic skins like crocodile and ostrich, all known for their texture and resilience.
Hermès maintains limited production and a controlled distribution model, enhancing the Kelly’s desirability. This strategy has been effective even amid broader market slowdowns. Additionally, the Kelly bag’s strong presence in the resale market highlights its investment value. Certain styles have been reported to double in value over five years, with some special editions fetching prices up to $450,000.
Crafting a legacy
The Kelly’s appeal in 2024 can be linked to the quiet luxury movement in fashion, believes US-based digital content creator and fashion commentator Arson Nicki. “True quiet luxury isn’t just about expensive basics but owning items only the discerning recognise — pieces that speak for themselves without loud logos. This understated elegance differentiates the Kelly from the more recognisable Hermès Birkin, allowing the Kelly to feel exclusive, even when it becomes more popular,” he says.
In 2024, both the Hermès Birkin and Kelly bags have continued to increase in value, with the Birkin generally commanding higher prices in the resale market. For instance, a Birkin 25 in Togo leather now retails for about $11,400 in the US, while the Kelly 25 costs slightly less at around $11,300. In the secondary market, pristine Birkins can sell for about $29,000 to $33,000, more than double their retail price, while Kelly bags in similar condition go for around $26,000 to $30,000. This price difference makes the Birkin a more valuable investment overall. However, both bags have proven to be strong investments, with some models doubling in value over five years.
Arson explains that Hermès has created a unique, FOMO-driven experience around buying a Kelly. “Rather than simply selling it to anyone, the brand requires customers to build a relationship with a sales associate by making smaller purchases over time, essentially proving loyalty to the brand. Online communities share tips on how to approach this, turning the process into a cultural ‘journey’ that’s celebrated on social media. This exclusivity makes owning a Kelly feel like a badge of honour, as buyers navigate unwritten rules, adding to the thrill and prestige of finally being ‘chosen’ for the bag,” he says.
Published – January 28, 2025 03:18 pm IST
