If trends emerging from fashion weeks held in New York, London, Milan and Paris are a yardstick, the year promises a versatile and transversal wardrobe for men
Suspended between city life and weekend getaways, designers propose a closet comprising trans-seasonal pieces exemplifying construction techniques and surface decoration for 2025.
Demonstrating an adaptation of traditional dress codes for contemporary life, labels like Tod’s, Gucci, Dior Men, Canali, Zegna, Hermès and Louis Vuitton have brought a touch of intrigue to outerwear seen in multi-pocketed chore jackets, double-breasted coats and utilitarian blousons crafted in luxe and technical textiles offering ease and movement. Moreover, it is hard to overlook a boyish undercurrent across offerings seen in V-necks, lightweight knits, glittery tanks, and micro shorts. High-street labels like Zara, H&M and Asos have been quick to offer a more accessible take on these trends.
At the Lakmé Fashion Week x FDCI 2024, which was held in New Delhi, homegrown menswear labels like Line Outline by Deepit Chugh, Pawan Sachdeva and Rahul Singh presented an array of trans-seasonal pieces in soft, skin-friendly denims and tailoring accented with statement-making surface texturing and fringes.
Also worth mentioning is MENS24 — a collaboration between stylist Akshay Tyagi and 431-88 by Shweta Kapur, which features elevated essentials like shackets, vests, ganjis, bundis and blazers embodying relaxed, languid tailoring.
Gucci’s glittery tank top
| Photo Credit:
MONIC
Men’s tank tops are here to stay
Looks like the irreverent tank top with a super scooped neckline is not going out of style anytime soon. Jeremy Allen White, in the recent Calvin Klein Fall 24 campaign, makes a strong case for the same. The actor styles the vest with a pair of jeans with his characteristic insouciance. On the other hand, Austin Butler had a rather polished take on the classic white tank during his ‘Elvis’ press tour in 2022. He layered his clean scooped vest with monochrome evening blazers and pin striped suits. Style maven Justin O’Shea has often stayed partial to the vest making it a synonym for ‘cool’. During the Milan Menswear Week, Fendi sent out a range of preppy tanks layered on partially unbuttoned polo tees while Gucci’s Sabato De Sarno offered a shine-on version glistening with rhinestones.
Stylist Raghav Tibrewal cautions that getting the right sizing is key. “It shouldn’t be too tight on your torso and the length shouldn’t allow for it to go any longer than the waist while also not being short enough for a midriff. Pair them with a pair of jeans, shorts or even a pant suit,” he says.
MILAN, ITALY – JUNE 17: Paul Mescal attends the Gucci Men’s Spring Summer 2025 Fashion Show during the Milan Fashion Week Menswear Spring/Summer 2025 at Triennale di Milano on June 17, 2024 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for Gucci)
| Photo Credit:
Vittorio Zunino Celotto
Micro shorts get shorter
Short shorts, which have been in style over the last couple of years, look relevant for the coming seasons too seen on the likes of Paul Mescal (the Normal People actor sported a pair of ultra-short boxer shorts as he graced Gucci menswear front row at Milan Fashion Week.
Stylist Isha Bhansali notes that this trend is an offshoot of retro revival. “Aamir Khan’s short shorts in Qayamat Se Qayamat Tak come to mind instantly. However, opt for micro shorts in durable and technical fabric. Style them with a Cuban collar shirt and throw a chain inside, you’re good to go!” says Isha.
Moreover, short shorts were prominently seen at Dior Men by Kim Jones in a cannage embroidered tweed format, and at labels like MSGM, SS Daley and Fendi among others.
Gucci camp collar
It is raining camp collar shirts
Cuban collar shirts with vibrant prints are having a moment of sorts seen at Gucci, Fendi and Giorgio Armani. Sabato De Sarno at Gucci offered a logo embossed take on them. The New York-based brand Bode featured a statement-making bubble motif, a nod to the deadstock fabrics from the 1930s and 1940s. “The Cuban shirts have become mainstream — making their presence felt from resort to social events. With athleisure still going strong, no rule is the new rule. Layer a Cuban collar shirt as an overshirt with a vest and a neck pendant and finish off the look with a pair of linen pants. Alternatively, dress it up with formal pants and a stiff trucker jacket,” suggests Isha.
Hermes short pea coat in basalt wool whipcord, with leather pockets
| Photo Credit:
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Chore jackets galore
Kim Jones at Dior Men offers a cheeky take on the apron, a traditional workwear garment recalling the iconic oblique curves. Reconciling tailoring and outerwear the collection features rounded volumes, and an unprecedented mashup of materials alternating between knubby knits and transparent separates. Tod’s outerwear and jackets showcases linear lines, featuring a water repellent and stain-resistant treatment.
Hermes short pea coats in basalt wool whipcord, with leather pockets were styled with overshirts in cotton poplin and saddler stitching. Stylist Yashasvvi Jagparvesh Mehlawat notes the term ‘chore jacket’ — came in the 19th Century, usually made from moleskin and tough cotton. “It was the multi-utility jacket which later opened up possibilities of effortless layering with crisp shirts to knitwear and from cargos to chinos. To nail the downtown boy aesthetic, one can easily ditch a full suit in favour of a breezy chore coat. The cropped jacket length adds ease into the outfit which can be paired with a cool pair of boots or loafers,” says Yashasvvi.
Zegna
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Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Textural knits
At Zegna, ribbed and padded jumpers made for eye-catching outerwear exemplifying layering both as a solution and an attitude. Moreover, textures added a tactile dimension: multi melange shetland/cashmere, intarsia panno and pure cashmere terry. Canali’s F/W 2024 presentation at Milan Fashion Week, ‘Into Nature’, was an ode to the outdoors, tinged with evocative brushstrokes and an understated, whispered charm rooted in expertise and sartorial mastery. The elaborate handicraft for unlined, seamless woollen or cashmere garments, was worked into the apparel offering a luxurious contemporary approach with Nature inspired patterns.
Zegna
| Photo Credit:
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Stylist Priyanka Yadav recommends a knitted co-ord set from the label, Margn. “It’s extremely wearable. Layer it with a neutral wool trench coat. Add a pop of colour to your winter ensemble with either an olive green or burnt orange cable knit from labels like Zegna and Hermes. A contrast in hem also creates a great visual appeal like a cropped knit worn with a long coat. Harri jumpers work well with a well-cut pair of denims and boots.
Published – January 10, 2025 03:57 pm IST
