Traditional Kashmiri jewellery finds a fresh, modern twist in Ratika Kaul’s designs

Ratika Kaul
| Photo Credit: Special Arrangement

India has always been fascinated by gold. We have worn, invested and treasured this metal over centuries. In its chinks, lie the sentimental value of being passed down for generations in the forms of bangles, chains, earrings, and coins. “We are so keen on gold jewellery not just because it looks good, but also because of the energy it carries,” says Chennai-based jewellery designer Ratika Kaul.

This Kashmiri who has been settled in Chennai for 28 years, has recently launched iterations of a traditional gold ornament from the northernmost part of the country called the dejhor to her collection.

A slender, intricate gold ornament, the dejhor is a talisman of heritage that is worn by the Kashmiri Pandit bride before the wedding processions to mark her transition into womanhood. It has three parts — a chain, the main hexagon shaped ornament and the charm that hangs at the end. The chain goes over the ear and hangs as low as the chest. “The dejhor is worn in a religious ceremony on the red thread before the wedding by the bride and mantras are chanted into it. It works as a charm or an amulet for protection and prosperity,” says Ratika speaking about the cultural significance of this ornament. 

The series of dejhors designed by Ratika makes it possible for the modern brides to hold their traditions close while keeping up with the evolving aesthetics of their lifestyles. “When I first started designing jewellery, this was one of the first pieces because I saw a lot of potential and room for experimentation,” she says putting on a traditional dejhor through her own inner-ear piercing. 

Ratika Kaul
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement

Although traditionally worn by Kashmiri brides, the dejhor has gained popularity recently and has been adapted by brides of various other cultures. “I had a Kerala bride come personally to order a dejhor for her wedding and there have also been Punjabis. I get a lot of orders also from abroad,” she says, adding that she has designed miniature dejhors that have been flying off the shelves due to their ease of carrying. 

Today, her designs include dejhors that can also be worn by women who do not have an inner ear or even a lobe piercing. “I have various collections with different styles — one with intricate details, one with botanical accents, one with pearls and shells, and I plan to make dejhors in every style.”

“I’m planning on putting together a series of Tibetan pieces with corals, inspired by jewellery from Leh and there will be a dejhor in that series as well,” she concludes. 

Ratika’s Designer Jewellery dejhors are available starting ₹13,500. For more details, Instagram @ratika.kaul or call 9840266669.