Why are Indians so angry about Prada’s ₹1.2 lakh Kolhapuris?

Now that the Prada-Kolhapur chappal issue has been debated over a week, what is the real issue enraging Indians? India is home to approximately 3,000 indigenous crafts, and while this is something to be proud of, the hard truth is a majority of us fail to see their value. Several of our craft and textile traditions are fading, and artisans languishing due to the lack of Government support, public visibility, and buyers. This includes Kolhapuri artisans who are far from the limelight and even the news of the Prada debacle.

An artisan at work
| Photo Credit:
ROY CHOWDHURY A

So, as many say, an international label has put a craft like the Kolhapuri chappal in the spotlight, something we Indians haven’t been able to do. Since the controversy emerged and our following report, Harshwardhan Patwardhan of Chappers says he has witnessed a 30-40% rise in sales, and a 400% increase in visitors on his social media accounts. Now, one may argue that what Prada did isn’t such a bad thing after all.

Read more:Meet the real artisans behind India’s iconic Kolhapuri chappals — now in the global spotlight

Crafting a Kolhapuri chappal is a labour-intensive process
| Photo Credit:
ROY CHOWDHURY A

A valid argument. Having said that, firstly, if we look at the Kolhapuri chappal in particular, it is a GI-tagged product. Secondly, in an age where the conversation on copyrights is finally being taken seriously, if a luxury fashion label has drawn from an Indian art/craft form, this “inspiration” needs to be credited. As many say, inspiration is a rather loosely used term, but after the social media uproar Prada has admitted to the sandals being India-inspired and the brand ‘vows to engage with local artisans ethically’.

Read more:Global fashion giant Prada acknowledges Kolhapuri inspiration

At artisan Arun Satpute’s workshop at Kolhapur
| Photo Credit:
ROY CHOWDHURY A

In a comment on The Hindu’s Instagram post on the controversy, Purushu Arie, who runs an ungendered fashion label of the same name, said the outrage over Prada’s Kolhapuris is not about cultural appropriation but about who gets to appropriate. Calling it ‘Prada’s Kolhapurigate’ he wrote: ‘Kolhapuris aren’t merely Indian, they are rooted in Dalit craft traditions. When Prada does it: outrage, discourse, decolonial hashtags. When upper caste Indians do the same, there is silence, gatekeeping…’ Adding, ‘…the question is not “what is being borrowed, but “who gets to borrow without credit, compensation, or representation, and who doesn’t’.  

A file photo of an artisan making Kolhapuri chappals at his shop in Kolhapur, Maharashtra
| Photo Credit:
PTI

Another perspective shared on the same thread stated that a majority of the people protesting against Prada are those who ‘will never buy Kolhapuris themselves, never wear handloom, or support a local artisan. You’re not upset about cultural appropriation; you’re upset that someone else took it, marketed it, and made it valuable. Go buy from Shein and pollute the world’. 

A snapshot from a craft fair
| Photo Credit:
ANSHIKA VARMA

In an Instagram reel, Suhail Sahrawat, founder of techwear label Garuda SS, acknowledged Prada’s lack of credit but also addressed the public outrage. As he mentioned in a comment, ‘…the presumption is that the consumer and observer of fashion lives under the belief that brands sit around finding ways to exploit us. Most time, ideas are occurring in organic albeit referential manners, no designer is operating with a malicious intent’. 

An artisan in Belgaum
| Photo Credit:
VIJAYKUMAR PATIL

And for the many also complaining that Kolhapuris aren’t comfortable or the right footwear for everyday use, there are many artisans and even brands who have given the chappal a contemporary fix with padded soles, etc. So the next time you attend a craft fair or flea market and spot an artisan selling Kolhapuris, consider trying a pair and you will be pleasantly surprised. And don’t forget to let us know how they feel.